A bit of myself

If you’re wondering what I’ve been working on, here’s a peek at one of my recent essays for Columbia School of Journalism.

China-related: I took a practice standardized test today – the Business Chinese Test – and it was HORRIBLE!!! Talk about speaking quickly about statistics!

Thanksgiving-related: I’m going to the Kapinski hotel tomorrow for a Thanksgiving buffet with Americans and non-Americans. I’m really looking forward to the mashed potatoes and gravy. But, Thanksgiving is all about family – no, wait…it’s all about giving smallpox blankets to American Indians…

Here’s the essay for your perusal (it’s probably the most interesting one…):

Essay A: Autobiographical Essay In a short autobiographical essay, tell us about yourself. You can write about your family, your education, your talents, or your passions; about significant places or events in your life; about books you have read, people you have met, or work you’ve done that has shaped the person you have become. Our only requirements are that the essay be informative, well written, and reflective of your own voice; our only cautions are that you avoid poetry, purple prose, or writing about yourself in the third person. (750-word limit)

            In my junior year of high school, I spent many a night consuming Virginia Woolf’s novels. When I had the chance to study her works in college, I leapt upon it without a second thought. Unfortunately, I had forgotten that critically reading a work of literature requires detachment, not love, and I had found it almost sacrosanct to read The Waves from a critical lens. Yet, when I began to read the work from a postcolonial perspective, I was excited, even giddy. This process, from consuming to critically “reading,” and, hence, contributing, is one that I have had to apply inside and out of the classroom. Four years ago, I began a similar transition at my second home for the past nine years, sleep-away camp.

            On my first day of camp, wide-eyed and smiling, ‘N Sync posters in hand, I greeted all of my bunkmates with an emphatic, “I am so excited to be here!” But despite my desire to meet new friends and climb trees at the ropes course, a lump obstinately formed in my throat, and that night all I could think about was going home. This was common; growing up, most of my sleepovers had ended early in the morning with a desperate call home. Luckily, with the help of my brother, new friends, and counselor, as well as long nights stargazing, afternoons boating on the lake, and those notorious camp dances, I successfully rose out of my homesick funk. Ten days later, I came home with a newfound confidence in myself; and so I went back, summer after summer.

            In the following years, I developed the role of verbose overachiever during the academic year and silly adolescent in the summer. Nothing came in the way of the two until the summer after my freshman year of college. After graduating from an unusually diverse high school, I had entered an institution where students displayed disgust towards “affirmative action students” and only students of color felt it necessary to join diversity clubs. I had begun my studies hoping to pursue finance; two semesters later, my primary focus was on systemic racial issues.

            My new outlook was pervasive. When I returned to camp in the summer of 2006, I couldn’t help but shift my perspective of camp towards its problematic aspects. That summer, “camp” stood in stark contrast to its previous image, and I realized that it was not impervious to its own systemic problems. When giving camp tours, parents asked me about the Caucasian demographics. Within camper circles, the overweight and socially awkward were excluded just as they would be at home; counselors tried in vain to thwart clique formations, but were often unsuccessful. Moreover, the counselors themselves existed within a strictly-bound social hierarchy: the support staff didn’t mingle with counselors, who, in turn, couldn’t comfortably associate with supervisors.

            I left that summer without my usual goodbye tears, and proceeded to sorely tell my friends and family that “camp had changed.” But the truth is that I knew camp hadn’t changed; indeed, I was aware that camp doesn’t cater to adults as it does children. That year, while debating whether or not to return, it became clear to me that the real “truth” was that I hadn’t dealt well with being disillusioned, at camp or in college. With this realization in mind, I knew that I couldn’t make a habit out of turning away from the unsavory. Situations will always come into focus, I told myself, and you’re going to have to deal with them.

            Because camp is a small, intentional community, comprised of no more than four hundred individuals in a given summer, “dealing” was an achievable task. Before returning to camp, I was promoted from counselor to waterfront director; I took the opportunity not only because it came with a pay raise, but because I knew that in my new role I would be better able to actively participate in the camp environment. That summer, by listening to and collaborating with my staff, I made a point of establishing the waterfront as a welcoming and safe space for campers and staff alike.

            Over the last two years, I have continued this process of reestablishment. Even though I do not plan on making a career out of camp, I know that without my specific experience there I may have never engaged in moments of passionate critical thought before making the choice to contribute to an environment that is as malleable as it is constructed.

This entry has been revised to reflect my most recent edit of the essay. (12.09.2009)

 

Well, hello there!

Dear Readers,

I apologize for my week hiatus.  I have been putting together my graduate applications, which have been overly time consuming lately. But, I wanted to check in today to write about some hot topics – but not about Obama’s visit, you can read the NYT for that! (Also, Obama’s visit was as restricted as has been reported, so I didn’t have a chance to talk to anyone who happened to see him.)

1. For all the Twilight fanatics out there, New Moon is coming out tonight! If anyone happens to see it, I’ll post on the Twilight craze. Suffice it to say that the series is the most popular in China right now, so I’m sure that there will be a big turnout.

2. One of my goals of this blog is to compare the news in the media – American and Chinese – with my day to day experiences here. Interestingly, Sharon LaFraniere, one of the NYT’s China beat reporters, wrote an article on scholarships that have been awarded to the sons and daughters of Namibia’s elite political figures.  While the article focuses on a global topic prevalent in news about China – its financial relationship with Africa – I feel as though Mrs. LaFraniere should have put  a few more facts about scholarships for African students in the article. Because she writes about China’s larger relationship with Africa, not only with Namibia, she should have also given the figures on how many African students, who are not related to political figures,  do receive scholarships.

But she did bring up a really interesting point: scholarships can be seen as a form of “cement[ing] diplomatic alliances.” At Jiaotong, the majority of international students are from Africa (this may not be the case at every university). I have met students from Sudan, Gabon, Namibia, Cameroon, Rwanda, and several other countries in Africa. And I’ve also gotten to hear a bit about the politics of being a student from Africa in this country. A friend of mine from Senegal had been studying in Taiwan until 2005, when Senegal decided to switch its diplomatic relationship to China, whose government does not recognize countries in alliance with Taiwan. Subsequently, my friend’s scholarship was terminated and he had to apply for a scholarship in Beijing.

Of course, the overwhelming amount of African students on scholarship does point to China’s diplomatic interests, but does it necessarily point to corruption? In the case of Namibia, yes. But after reading the article, Iwas left wondering whether or not all scholarship agreements imply bribery and corruption on China’s part. Thoughts on this?

3. I find the juxtaposition of Mao and World War II documentaries on CCTV quite interesting. Just an hour ago, both were airing on different channels. The Mao documentary featured recreated scenes, with Mao portrayed as a commander-in-chief with a chip on his shoulder. The WWII doc, on the other hand, used primary souces, such as video clips and photos (quite graphic, I should say) of Holocaust victims and proud European and American soldiers. As China was on the side of the Allies for this war, of course it makes sense that they would be glorified. What’s strange, though, was the documentary’s rendering of Hitler as the insane murderer that we, in the States, are used to seeing. Mao, on the other hand, was depicted as a calmer figure. Instead of seeing this as typical, I think it’s more useful to look at these two documentary forms and ask how our pereceptions of the world’s leaders have been formed. Does the style of documentary affect our views? And what do you respond to more, recreated scenes, real footage?

4. If you want to sound cool, here are some words in Chinese that you can nonchalantly insert into conversation:

Jewish person: You tai ren (yoh-ty-ren)

Summer camp:  Xia ling ying (shee-ah-ling-ying)

I love you: Wo ai ni! (wo-ay-nee)

Any other requests?

5. I went to Beijing University – China’s premiere university – with Isabel last week. It was snowing (silver iodide induced (?)), so it was a really picturesque scene. We stopped off at the building where the Chinese literature department is housed and took some pictures over there. The school has maintained many of its older buildings, which makes you feel like you’re walking around the same institution students did a hundred years ago (minus the new tennis courts and behemoth structures along the periphery of the campus). I’m putting some pictures below. Off now to a meeting with my language partner.

Chinese literature buildingIsabel standing in front of the entrance to the Chinese literature building's courtyardStanding in front of Beida's lake

 

Hemingway in Beijing

Twilight listed number one on imported books listSometimes I get the feeling like I’m writing into a void on this thing. Knock, knock, knock. Is anybody there? Is anyone even reading this anymore?

Originally, I wasn’t sure if this blog was going to be for me or for you, the audience. What I’ve found is that in the end, it’s more for you, isn’t it? Yes, I’m recording my time here, and, of course, examining it through these entries, but the fun of it all, the amusement – that’s all for you.

The question of audience, reader-response, fun, these are all issues that I think about when I reflect on my experience here. Sometimes it feels like a burden; I know I’ve done something great or gone somewhere interesting, but sometimes I just want feelings to linger and remain in my memory. The process of describing my experiences and giving them to an audience can be a challenge at times; sometimes I worry that putting something on “paper” takes away from the sanctity of my personal memory and also makes me self-conscious of the event that I am – strangely, I suppose, in light of my previous statement – so eager to share.

What I suppose I’m trying to say is this: the process of blogging – writing down my thoughts and memories for an audience – is a difficult one, as at some point I have to become detached from my experience to write about it and make it interesting. The challenge of writing descriptive language to thoroughly convey emotion or conjure an image requires more than the act of experiencing something; it requires me to create a narrative of a trajectory of sorts.

The fact that I no longer receive comments on this blog isn’t the only thing that has brought my attention to story-telling and narrative creation lately. I’m currently applying to graduate school in order to further my literary studes (in this case, I want to pursue contemporary Chinese literature), and while composing my statement of purpose have become unusually focused on literature’s role in society, the process of creating literature, and what literature means to me.

In an effort to stop speaking to myself for hours on end, I’ve channeled a lot of my thoughts into conversations with friends. Recently, I decided to start up a blog with Sarah, Madeline, and Michelle, among others, in order to begin some sort of dialogue on our post-undergraduate thoughts regarding culture, literature, art, etc., In Beijing, I’ve gone on many an outing with friends such as Isabel, Maria, and Dario, to places such as the Literature Museum (an absolute bore!), 798, and myriad events, such as the ones I’ve previously mentioned.

Moreover, I’ve been trying to meet Chinese friends with whom I can discuss issues of Chinese literature and the future of the art form here. On Cultural Day, I met a student at Jiaoda who is studying English and loves literature. Though he is a wee freshman, his genuine interest in American culture and his ability to converse almost fluently in English made me think that we could potentially be friends and discuss culture and literature from time to time. This idea came to fruition on Saturday, when I took the student, Barry, to Wangfujing’s bookstore, the largest in Beijing. It was kind of cute, because Barry doesn’t really leave the Jiaoda area, and he became this wide-eyed kid when I told him we were going to go to a bookstore for the afternoon. We spent over two hours in the store. Besides showing him all the good classics to read and checking out China’s top ten list – Twilight is number one – we also went to the Chinese literature area, and Barry explained the difference between contemporary literature (dang dai), which is Chinese literature written between 1949 to the present, and modern literature (xian dai), which is categorized as literature written between 1919 and 1949. I ended up buying him Great Expectations, even though he already knew what to expect (I asked him if he wanted to read about England during the Industrial Revolution to see what London was like then. He said, “smelly? dirty?”). I bought five books, two written only in Chinese.

On Monday, I continued Barry’s literary education by explaining some key phrases in one of Donald Trump’s brilliant works, which Barry decided to read after making it through Kite Runner, a task which required an arduous three-day reading spree (not bad, right?). I spent some time explaining terms such as “keeping it in perspective” and “living on the edge.” Barry also came with Twilight, which he plans to read this upcoming weekend. I am not at the level to read high falutin’ Chinese literature yet, so I brought a textbook from the States that I think has much more interesting topics than the ten-year-old books we’ve been given here. Because Barry has five brothers and sisters (talk about the fees!!) I thought it’d be interesting to talk using vocabulary from the chapter, “Birth Control and Human Rights.” Our conversation ended up being quite interesting. Barry pretty much made the point that the book made, which is: with all the kids that China would have without birth control, human rights organizations would be worrying about why the children were so poor and families couldn’t support them. With birth control, people worry that China is violating people’s human rights. There are two sides to the issue; long story short, you won’t lose your job (anymore) if you have more than one child. You just have to pay the fee.

At the end of our converation, Barry told me that he really liked talking about the one child policy, and was eager to talk with me about other policies that China has taken and ideas that are specific to China, especially those which sprout from Confucian thought (he showed me a Confucian saying that says that a man should be independent at thirty, and explained that there’s one for forty, too). In the States, we hear a lot about complacency of the people. We read about convictions of corrupt financiers and of horror stories about corrupt officials. It’s also important that we keep in mind that news is carefully chosen; how often do you read about students’ healthy inquiry into Chinese policy without condemning it? (Also, how often do you read about manufactured snow, which is what we had on Halloween!) In the two times that I have seen Barry, he’s both quoted Obama (”Obama says that the government can’t do everything. You have to leave it in the hands of the people.”) and Confucius. He’s praised policies made by the Chinese government – especially regarding the reform and open up (gai ge kai fang) movement - and talked about the fact that the government has smart people running it, but people have to contribute ideas for things to change.

I look forward to more talks with Barry, though he is a young’n. Speaking with him about literature, about the influence that the works that he’s reading has had on him, makes me think more about the role that literature plays in social environments. It also reminds me of why I enjoy the practice of examining the creation of narratives. What sort of narratives inspire Barry? If he knows about the world mainly through books, which ones are they, and what do they do for him?

One of Barry’s favorite authors is Ernest Hemingway. He recently read his novella The Old Man and the Sea. I had never read it before, so I picked it up in Wangfujing and read it last night. In the story, an old fisherman tells himself, “A man can be destroyed but not defeated.” This is Barry’s favorite line in the book, perhaps because his mother always told him never to give up, even if he meets challenges. While Barry took the advice of Hemingway, which happened to also be that of his mother, and perhaps Confucian thought (?), I read the novella as a Daoist allegory. In Daoist theory, life is generational, there is no linear history, and man and animal are one. In the one hundred-and-ten page work, the passage that resonated for me was: “The thousand times that he had proved it meant nothing. Now he was proving it again. Each time was a new time and he never thought about the past when he was doing it.”

To me, my existence here cannot be a linear one. Perhaps I will leave as a person who is better at Chinese. But each time I learn something new or meet someone new, I feel like I can know everything, that I am getting closer to understanding the status of contemporary Chinese culture. Yet, my perpetual distancing of myself from this fact, my knowledge that everything I learn can be isolated, shows that I don’t truly condone the act of possessing full knowledge of anything. I hope that when I return from Beijing, I’m still thirsty – no, parched - for experience and for reception of others’ experiences, without feeling like I’ve missed out – only that I know that I want more.

 

Getting Out

Life was pretty miserable between Wednesday afternoon and Friday morning, as I had the Jiayuan Czuo  ganmao, better known as my dormitory’s common cold. Coughing and sweating  (and the composition of an occasional blog post) comprised most of my daily activity; a friend or two stopped by in the interim.

On Friday morning, I woke up in a pool of my own sweat and decided that I really didn’t want to be sick anymore. Moreover, when I took my temperature and realized that it was 37.9 for the billionth time, I decided to throw it away, as only a broken thermometer would show the same exact temperature that many times. Without knowing whether or not I had a fever (or whether I ever had a fever, or whether the fever I had was higher or lower than 37.9), I gave Isabel a call and asked if we could do something. Luckily, she had read about an ongoing series at 798 (Beijing’s trendy art district located in renovated warehouses on the east side of of the city) entitled “China Stories,” which features weekly interviews with successful foreigners living in Beijing. Friday’s interview gave the spotlight to Johannes Neubacher, the editor-in-chief of the Chinese edition of Madame Figaro, a French fashion magazine.

What we expected to gain from going to this interview we couldn’t quite decipher, but we nevertheless headed to the art district to see Mr. Neubacher and two art exhibits by Ai Wei Wei and Zhang Xiaogang, two of China’s most prominent contemporary artists. Between bouts of sporadic coughs and nose-blows, I managed to tip-toe appropriately through the exhibits, but didn’t hold back from gingerly touching Ai Wei Wei’s three-dimensional world – made out of hundreds of layers of thin cotton strips, which are meant to represent how China is inextricably linked to the rest of the world (and vice versa) through the cotton trade, among other things – and Zhang Xiaogang’s cement figures of the relics of his youth.

In an unfortunate turn of events, the interview with Heubacher ended up being weak in comparison to the exhibits. Though we arrived on time, Isabel and I were dismayed to find only a handful of attendees at the free event; the translator arrived late – hence, the interview started late – and she only translated questions she deemed “important”; and Heubacher only skimmed the surface of the cultural issues inherent in such a transitory and generally  insidious atmosphere as the fashion magazine industry. (My nose blowing and general coughing didn’t exactly make the event more enjoyable.)

On leaving the event, our information regarding fashion magazine culture in Beijing had increased to the extent that we knew that the three tenets of personal fashion are: 1. people want to show off wealth by wearing name brands 2. people want to distinguish themselves from other people, and 3. people want to make sure that the way in which people distinguish themselves corresponds with their personalities. We also found out that magazines in Beijing make much more money on advertising than on distribution, so that’s why all of the fashion magazines look like magazine-length Jimmy Choo ads.

What we felt like we were missing was a discussion that pursued larger questions such as why foreigners become editor-in-chiefs of magazines that serve to represent Beijing fashion, or how this EIC perceives his role as a contributor to the rampant consumerism taking place in Beijing’s 26-35 year old women – the age group that Madame Figaro represents. Interestingly, we ended up using these lingering questions as prompts for what became a two-hour discussion at a nearby Japanese restaurant on topics ranging from the possiblity of fluency in Chinese to examinations of our own reactions to our Chinese friends’ perspectives on government structures and current policies.

For me, the conversation was long overdue, as I have been trying to grapple with many feelings of alienation and frustration in a culture that can sometimes seem inaccessible. Moreover, our talk set the stage for my outing today with a Chinese student I met during Cultural Day, whose outlook on China and its future was a stark comparison to what I have previously observed and/or assumed. I’ll get into this more in my next entry, which will also feature pictures of the top sellers in the foreign book market at Beijing’s largest book store.

Look forward to details of Obama-praising, Twilight hype, and the wide-eyed hopes of a young college student in Beijing.

A short note: From now on,  I plan on responding to comments in the comments section of each entry. So, if you leave a comment, you can now expect a response.

 

Sick Update

I have an 100 degree Fahrenheit fever.

That’s 37.9 degrees in Celsius.At the forbidden city in October

 

News Briefs

1. The NYT reported today that in Chongqing six people were sentenced to death and one to 18 years in prison, after being convicted of corruption. (And some extra: during my first week in Beijing, Scott told me, “They’re all corrupt.” By this he meant that everyone is involved in financial corruption of some sort, but the ones who get convicted have gotten on somebody’s bad side. In this case, it seems as if Bo Xilai needed a popularity boost.)

2. Yesterday, China Daily reported that a 32-year old Russian student at Beijing Hang University died yesterday of H1N1. He is the first foreigner to die of the disease and the eighth overall in China. (My news: our teacher told us about this yesterday and another one told us today. We’ve been warned not to go out of our rooms if we feel sick. Unfortunately, this week everyone in our dormitory is sick, including Bolette, Dario, Renata, Mei Mei, and - worst of all – me. Though I don’t have a fever or any of the main symptoms of the flu, I do have a phlegmy chest cough and an achy body. I went to class today, but I may not go tomorrow, even though I have a small test. masks for saleIn related news, in order to protect themselves from the virus, Chinese students have been wearing masks everywhere over the past few days. The masks are so popular that they’ve become a fashion statement. Vendors are selling masks with different patterns and cartoons on them, so people can get creative if they want to. A few lucky souls will get a mask when I return home…) 

3. The temperature has risen a bit from its frigid below-freezing temperatures on Saturday thru Tuesday to stable, dreary, and cold ones. Sunday morning's snow-laden garbage cartA lot of people think they got sick from the abrupt change of temperature. I’m sick because Mei Mei was hacking a lung for a week.

 

A Developing Narrative

I feel a story coming on about the person  – or shall I say (eek!) my driver – who takes me to work every Tuesday at 3:00 pm sharp.

On an average Tuesday at say 3:15 pm you can find me asking a begrudging man how his day was: What have you been doing? Have you had a lot of customers today? What do you and your wife do on a common outing? Do you like the weather? Don’t you like the weather?

Lin shi fu, a perennial dweller of Beijing, husband of one, father of one, chain-smoker, park-goer, spitter, sleeper, and – of course –  driver always answers my questions, and he even asks me some too. Today, he told me a story, and it went like this:

     Melissa: When you were a child, in which area of Beijing did you live?*

     LSF: Tian’anmen

     Melissa: Is that the same as Qian men?

     LSF: No! Tian’anmen. Understand?

     Melissa: Ah, yes! Tian’anmen. Of course! Wow, right there in the middle of the city.

     LSF: Actually, I am part of an old Beijing famiily.

     Melissa:  But you are not old!

     LSF: No, I am part of an old family. We’ve been here since the Qing dynasty. Do you know the Qing dynasty?

     Melissa: The Qing dynasty! Of course I know it. Your family must have been famous.

   LSF: Well, I don’t know about that. My great-grandfather worked for the dynasty.

   Melissa: Wow! What did he do?

    LSF: About that, I’m not very sure. But my father told me that he died at the ripe age of 20.

    Melissa: Oh. That’s young. Killed?

    LSF: Sickness.

    Melissa: Shot?

    LSF: Sickness.

    Melissa: Sickness?

    LSF: Sickness.

*Following conversation is all in Chinese, and should be imagined as such.

The above conversation happens three times at least in varying forms throughout the weekly forty-minute car ride home. (Sometimes, if I’m not sleeping, we talk on the way there, too.) Clearly, there are some gaps in our conversations; maybe I’m not the best at understanding Beijing driver-speak just yet. But I find the conversations helpful and interesting, even though it seems to be at the expense of Lin shi fu’s peace and privacy in the driver’s seat.

Though I may come off as slightly impish here, I actually do try to back off if I feel like I’m asking too many questions. But Lin shi fu always greets me with a warm smile and leaves with one, so I’m pretty sure that I’m not imposing too much. Moreover, we do discuss things of interest to the both of us. Last week, we talked about inter-generational smoking habits; today, we discussed common ages for children to leave home.

In the following weeks, I plan on writing more about my Tuesday interactions with Lin shi fu. Also, did anyone pick up on the fact that I spent the latter portion of this evening reading McSweeney’s articles? Jesus, I’m a chameleon (or a Dave Eggers wannabe – you choose)!

 

Insert Halloween Trope Here

With Yang

With Yang

Jin Wu Xing, the large warehouse market, provided the kitschy French masquerade masks, while the bar and art districts provided the parties. But no one in Beijing supplied the essential components of America’s favorite pagan holiday: children and candy.

Halloween in Beijing is an opportunity for bars to make a buck and for foreign students to try to capture the feel of a longstanding tradition in the States and elsewhere. For me, however, I was generally unenthused and uninspired by the events of the night, which included a Tim Burton pre-game playlist, a decision to not spend 200 kuai for an overcrowded dance party (that we previously attended for free), and a few hours at Nan Jie, a foreigners’ bar in Sanlitun.

Maybe I’m just not a partier. Or maybe I’m starting to realize that Halloween parties in Beijing are simulacra; just because bars are decorated with pumpkins doesn’t mean that the tradition exists here. Without the sheer enjoyment and genuine fear expressed by the real revelers of the holiday – children - Halloween is dead. But then again, this point of view is clearly an American’s. Moments of disappointment such as these always harken back to the real point of the matter: I can’t step out of the American perspective. I continually try to enter these blank spaces, ironically embodied in a decorated and loud bar, and find myself wishing that I felt something. But what exactly am I looking to feel? And if I felt the feeling of home or of a connection to something familiar, would I be satisfied? Should I be looking for America here?

I remember when I first read James Joyce’s short story, “Clay,” in his work Dubliners, I felt a connection to Halloween even though the author depicted an All Hallow’s Eve celebration from early 20th-century Dublin. Though I hadn’t intentionally been looking for connections between the celebration of the pagan holiday at home and abroad, I was strangely excited by Joyce’s depiction of a rainy night, a woman clad in brown who accidentally chooses death in a game of chance, who also has a pointed nose and a small little body – a husbandless, lonely, and isolated woman who has become the quintessential figure of an American (and Irish?) Halloween. Looking back on my first reading of the story, I can say why I felt connected to Joyce’s depiction of the holiday. Now, having just read it again, I realize that I like the story because it’s layered; Joyce intertwines the rich Celtic history of All Hallow’s Eve with the state of Ireland’s then contemporary social ailments. Though I can’t necessarily relate, I can tap into a rich space - the piece begs its readers to come along and play in a kind of Sartrean fantasy land – where both reader and author put in half of the effort.

In Beijing, I sometimes have a hard time tapping in. I sensed that the Halloween scene was vapid, while the days leading up to the National Day was laden with a heavy and rich history. Yet, I couldn’t enter into either of those spaces, as the former didn’t offer anything and the latter was so layered and complex that all that I wanted to do was watch (and that was all that I was allowed). Critical inquiry in China requires so much of me. Culturally, there aren’t many crossovers. And when there are, I feel as though they’re empty – I don’t want to dig deeply into consumerism in China and its adaptation of American cultural practices.

So for now, I am on the outside just taking it all in. Critical inquiry will come later, but this first trip is purely experiential.

Now can someone please sum all of this up in a concise and well written statement of purpose?

 

Beijing Secrets

secretsWalk under the overpass to the right of Jiaoda’s south gate and you’ll find an entrance to the Meiyuan Hotel’s courtyard. Enter the courtyard and stroll around the corner and you’ll find one of the best vegetarian establishments in Hai Dian, and perhaps even Beijing: Jingsi Vegetarian Restaurant.

I was introduced to this restaurant by Jesse, a fellow American student who wanted to show his appreciation to our Chinese helper, Wu Fanqing, by taking him out to lunch this afternoon. When Jesse called me around the time of our meeting, I offered to meet him at the restaurant, which I knew was right around the corner from the school’s south gate, but he was convinced I wouldn’t know where to find it. His conviction, though simple, was bewildering to me. How could I not know where a restaurant is in this area? Honestly, I eat out two times a day and, so I thought, I’ve tried out every restaurant there is to try out within a square kilometer. Yet, when Jesse led Wu Fanqing and me into a small fenced courtyard to the right of a large overpass, I realized that I had no idea what I was thinking. Of course the best restaurants are tucked into places like this. Of course I didn’t know about it.

“The best places to go in Beijing are all secrets,” Jesse said when we sat down to eat. “There’s a secret city hidden underground. The Soviets built it during the Cold War.” Whenever I hang out with Jesse I learn something new about Beijing. As a PhD candidate at Jiaoda, Jesse’s had the opportunity to live here for over two years, and he also has a job with the government – something related with computer systems. So, he knows a thing or two about the city, and I really hope that while I’m here I’ll be able to see some of the more hidden sites. Last week, I know Jesse got to go inside Empress Cixi’s courtyard  and swing on her favorite swing  with a CCTV crew…can I finagle a PA job?

I sat daydreaming about all of these unmined opportunities while devouring the most sumptuous vegetarian food I think I’ve ever eaten. Our meal consisted of mock roasted duck, cow brain, braised pork, and chicken with vegetables. It was so good to taste all of the flavors without having to eat the meat. The only dish that really didn’t taste like the real thing was the cow brain, which was stuffed with eggplant and mock shrimp, so I think I’m going to have to order the original if I really want to taste frontal lobes.

It’s not that vegetarian food is an unusual delicacy in Beijing (I actually mostly eat vegetarian dishes), but happening upon a restaurant that innovatively produces meat-flavored vegetarian dishes is a whole different ball game. (Wu Fanqing deems the food te se cai, specialty food.) I’m honestly surprised that I found this type of cuisine here, right around the corner from my dorm. I’m looking forward to going home and ripping neo-American cuisine fanaticists a new one. “Did you know that China’s been doing this for way longer than you have?” I’ll say (only if I meet someone who thinks that America is the forerunner of mock meat dishes).

I’m also looking forward to discovering more of the Beijing that I can’t read about in a Lonely Planet guide. Until then, I’ll be going back to Jingsi Vegetarian Restaurant. Tonight, in fact. It’s Mei Mei’s birthday and we’re all taking her out to eat. For her gift, I blew up a collage of pictures of us and different scenes from our trip to Jingshan and Beihai Parks a few weeks ago and put it on the wall above her bed while she was sleeping last night. I think she thought it was a fabulous surprise. “Everytime I look at it, it makes me smile,” she keeps telling me.

 

Moving on

I chose not to update this past week in order to give Lady the memorial she deserved. Thank you, everyone, for your memories.

This past week wasn’t a great one, mostly because my life had to move at a very fast pace, despite my inclination to slow down and take a moment to  grieve over Lady. In order to prepare for this past Saturday’s Cultural Day, I, along with the three other Americans, had to put in hours upon hours of work.

Representing America isn’t easy, especially when there are only four Americans available to represent it. Despite our lack of people, we went to grand lengths to put together an exhibit that could sufficiently embody all that America is about. What we ended up with was a four-themed timeline (American history, US-China International Relations, Technological Development, Popular Culture), two basketball hoops, fake money, educational materials (but not enough, thanks to our holier-than-thou Embassy), music (thanks to Yang, some Grateful Dead was tucked in between the Dylan and Joplin), and Budweiser.

Oh, and did I mention that Canada was also sharing our booth? For some IMG_1251inane reason, an American-Canadian roommate duo decided that it would make more sense for America and Canada to share one booth. So, bordering all of the American history was a beautiful set of Canadian Flags. A Canadian flag also adorned our small table where we presented information about America. And, Canada offered Chicken Soup for the Canadian Soul books, published and printed in the States, of course.

My tone is angry, I know. I really hated preparing for this day. It wasn’t ”voluntary” and it required too many hours of my life. Also, Americans can be volatile, and I really would have preferred working with Swedes or Danes. So, there’s that.

Anyway, despite my rage over the preparation, I must say that the day itself was pretty good. I drank a sufficient amount of beer to man the booth for the required hours, and I did have some time to take a break for a tour around the proverbial world.

Perhaps most enjoyable was my time with the Saudis. Their embassy is quite generous, as it gave them a large tent and all of its accompanying furniture and dress-up clothes. IMG_1241I took a few minutes out of my day to be a Saudi (it should go without saying that there are no women from Saudi Arabia on scholarship here), and put on the required dress. That’s my classmate, Sale, in the picture. We get into fights every day over his lack of classroom manners (he acts like a prepubescent schoolboy – must I say more?), but I thought it would be nice of me to indulge his whims, so I took a picture with him in the tent.

Not much else to say about the day. I did get to speak Chinese all day though, which was a serious plus. (It was really difficult to get the Rosa Parks story out in Chinese.) I now have around twenty new phone numbers in my book, all new language partners….we’ll see how that goes. This week will be better, for sure, even though I have four days straight of midterms.

And here’s a cute picture to keep you going.

Mei mei in traditional clothes, Melissa in pseudo-bougie post-NYU garb

Mei Mei in traditional clothes, Melissa in pseudo-bougie post-NYU garb